Mountain Living is an Art

Hiking to the top of the mountain is a special privilege that we are able to enjoy living where we do.  We go out our back door and hike up from 9,750’ in elevation to 10,500’.  A hiking club would label our hike as strenuous but we take out time and it actually is not that difficult.  It is a great way to spend a few hours and have a picnic on a mountain top.  The further up the mountain you go the steeper it gets until it becomes very steep but no rock climbing is needed to get to the top.

From out back door to the top takes one hour and forty minutes and to get back down the time is one hour.  While the hike is strenuous and you are huffing and puffing when you get to the top, when you stand on that weathered ridge of rock and look around you forget all the difficulty of getting there.  The vista as demonstrated in the photos is breath taking.

There is just something about standing on the very top of a mountain looking out for what seems forever that is a balm to your soul and a comfort to your mind.  Modern technology is amazing and we could see a friends house on the next ridge over and used our cell phone to call him.  He went out and even with his binoculars he could not see us standing on top of the mountain waving our arms.  Standing on top of a mountain helps you put into perspective just how small you really are by comparison.  It is an amazing way of helping you put your ego into perspective.

How Farmers Influence Our Lives

Corn and soybeans, two of the most prominent crops grown in the Midwest and many parts of the world, have interesting histories, uses and reasons for their importance.

Other crops are also important, but corn and soybeans rank first and second respectively in acres harvested and cash receipts in the U.S. Both crops are highly adaptable.

They complement each other well, as every farmer knows. Corn, a grass plant, needs nitrogen to maximize its production, which soy, a legume, produces nitrogen.

Soybeans utilize much phosphate and potash, which the ample fodder (roots, stalks, leaves, and cobs) of corn furnishes. Rotating them annually usually benefits farmers.

Both crops are widely used, first as feeds for livestock, poultry and fish, and second as oils for various uses including fuel (ethanol and biodiesel) and human food.

Additionally, corn is widely used as a sweetener in many items including cereal, soda pop, ice cream and a long list of other consumables. It is also used for plastic, paint, glue, antiperspirant and toothpaste, among other things.

Soybean oil is the most widely used cooking oil in the U.S. and several other countries. Soy is also used to make varnish, ink, as an emulsifier to hold candy bars and other substances together, as substitutes for milk and meat and a long list of other products.

A 2013 book stimulated my interest. A fellow resident of my county, Steve Kenkel, sent me Kernels of Corn History (www.hybridcorncollector.com), a book he compiled about the history of local producers of hybrid corn seed.

More than a half century ago, Shelby County, Iowa, had more commercial producers of hybrid corn seed than any other county in the U.S. I saw names I am familiar with, like Kilpatrick, Pingel, Plumb, Rosmann and Wilson, to name but a few in the book and the history of their operations.

I am also well acquainted with families in the area who developed leading soybean seed companies. I grew soy seed for one these companies for a number of years.

Many major corn and soybean seed companies started in the Midwest, like Pioneer, DeKalb and Stine. There are many others; I don’t mean any offense if I didn’t mention your favorite brands.

Go to the Wildest Places

But even across this seemingly limitless expanse, very little land is untouched by civilization. There are more than 4 million miles of public roads in the United States, according to the Bureau of Transportation Statistics, and that doesn’t count private roads, utility roads or off-road vehicle trails. Add to that 2.5 million miles of oil and natural gas pipelines and approximately 160,000 miles of high-voltage transmission lines, and you’ve got a landscape diced into bite-sized bits.

So the question here is, where can you really get away from it all? Away from the sounds of distant highways, from air pollution, light pollution, pollution pollution?

A good place to start looking is a 2005 map by the U.S. Geological Survey that depicts the average distance to the nearest road for every point in the contiguous states. (A point, in this case, is a 30-meter by 30-meter square.) Although the map is now nine years old, the dark green patches, signifying roadless areas, are still, for the most part, dark green.

Clustered mostly in the sparsely populated mountain ranges and deserts of the West, there are also a few patches further east where the land is inhospitable to development or protected by law: the bayous of southern Louisiana, the north of Minnesota, and the Adirondacks, for example.

Much of the dark green overlaps with federally designated wilderness, as defined by the Wilderness Act of 1964: “an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.”

There are currently more than 750 such areas in the National Wilderness Preservation System comprising over 109 million acres—roughly 5 percent of the United States by area.

Need a refresher from the other 95 percent? We picked 10 wild places in the lower 48 states that are truly wild. Not all are federally protected wilderness, but all are places where “man is a visitor”—you included.

What Nature Gives Us

There is no question that Earth has been a giving planet. Everything humans have needed to survive, and thrive, was provided by the natural world around us: food, water, medicine, materials for shelter, and even natural cycles such as climate and nutrients. Scientists have come to term such gifts ‘ecosystem services’, however the recognition of such services goes back thousands of years, and perhaps even farther if one accepts the caves paintings at Lascaux as evidence. Yet we have so disconnected ourselves from the natural world that it is easy—and often convenient—to forget that nature remains as giving as ever, even as it vanishes bit-by-bit. The rise of technology and industry may have distanced us superficially from nature, but it has not changed our reliance on the natural world: most of what we use and consume on a daily basis remains the product of multitudes of interactions within nature, and many of those interactions are imperiled. Beyond such physical goods, the natural world provides less tangible, but just as important, gifts in terms of beauty, art, and spirituality.

Earth Day seems as good a day as any to remind ourselves what nature gives us free-of-charge. Here then is a selective sampling of nature’s importance to our lives:

Tad lo waterfall in Laos. Photo by: Rhett A. Butler.
Tad lo waterfall in Laos. Photo by: Rhett A. Butler. Fresh water: There is no physical substance humans require more than freshwater: without water we can only survive a few hellish days. While pollution and overuse has threatened many of the world’s drinking water sources, nature has an old-fashioned solution, at least, to pollution. Healthy freshwater ecosystems—watersheds, wetlands, and forests—naturally clean pollution and toxins from water. Soils, microorganisms, and plant roots all play a role in filtering and recycling out pollutants with a price far cheaper than building a water filtration plant. According to research, the more biodiverse the ecosystem, the faster and more efficiently water is purified.

Pollination: Imagine trying to pollinate every apple blossom in an orchard: this is what nature does for us. Insects, birds, and even some mammals, pollinate the world’s plants, including much of human agriculture. Around 80% of the world’s plants require a different species to act as pollinator.

In agriculture, pollinators are required for everything from tomatoes to cocoa, and almonds to buckwheat, among hundreds of other crops. Globally, agricultural pollination has been estimated to be worth around $216 billion a year. However large such monetary estimates don’t include pollination for crops consumed by livestock, biofuels, ornamental flowers, or the massive importance of wild plant pollination.

Seed dispersal: Much like pollination, many of the world’s plants require other species to move their seeds from the parent plant to new sprouting ground. Seeds are dispersed by an incredibly wide-variety of players: birds, bats, rodents, megafauna like elephants and tapir, and even, researchers have recently discovered, fish. Seed dispersal is especially important for tropical forests where a majority of plants depend on animals to move.

Pest control: A recent study found that bats save US agriculture billions of dollars a year simply by doing what they do naturally: eating insects, many of which are potentially harmful to US crops.

Almost all agricultural pests have natural enemies, along with bats, these include birds, spiders, parasitic wasps and flies, fungi, and viral diseases. The loss, or even decline, of such pest-eating predators can have massive impacts on agriculture and ecosystems.

Great Walks on a Beach

From its wild and rocky coast in the north to the south coast’s vast, sandy shores, the California coastline lures many to walk along the edge of the continent to gaze at the ocean. Sweeping coastal views are blocked in many cities, but wide-open hiking spaces abound nearby where anyone willing to leave the car behind can get a closer look at the wild Pacific.

While the California Coastal Trail winds along the 1,200 miles of the state’s coast, not many people have to time to hike the entire distance. Dip your toe in with some of these Golden State coastal trail highlights:

Salt Point Bluffs (10 miles round trip)

Riots of wildflowers, wild coastal bluffs and spouting whales in the distance are bonus elements of Sonoma County’s Salt Point State Park — about 23 miles north of Jenner on Highway 1. Follow the trail north from the Gerstle Cove parking lot. After tracing your route along the rugged shoreline, either continue to follow the trail or take a stroll along Stump Beach (the cliff is high here, so be careful). Then, pass through coastal grasslands, a bishop pine forest and country roads on your way to Horseshoe Point.

Dipsea Trail (14 miles round trip)

Marin County’s Dipsea Trail may not start at the beach, but it winds through redwood forest and mountain landscapes before finally dipping its way toward Stinson Beach. Start in Mill Valley at the trailhead, head up three flights of steps as tall as a 50-story building and meander through the Muir Woods National Monument, following the well-marked trail to the ocean. Just make sure you don’t take this hike on the date of the annual Dipsea Race in June, America’s oldest trail race in which runners brave the sections of the trail named ‘Dynamite’ and ‘Cardiac’ to race from Mill Valley to the Pacific Ocean over Mount Tamalpais.

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve (various trail options)

Just three miles south of Carmel, Point Lobos State Reserve is often referred to as the crown jewel of the State Park System. The Spanish called this area Punta de los Lobos Marinos (Point of the Sea Wolves) for the barks and howls of the resident sea lions. The trail along the dramatic rocky coastline, from Moss Cove to Gibson Beach is about six miles, but shorter walks are available as well. The trail to the Bird Island overlook is a good spot for bird watching, Whaler’s Cove is popular with divers and the Devil’s Cauldron whirlpool bubbles and boils at high tide.

Montaña de Oro Bluffs Trail (3.4 miles round trip)

This easy hike south of Morro Bay in Montaña de Oro State Park offers meadows full of flowers, expansive views from rocky peaks, Pacific Ocean vistas and marine life along the rocky bluffs. Start at the trailhead, on Pecho Valley Road southwest of the town of Los Osos. The trail is well defined and easy for families to enjoy without too much exertion. Follow along over the wooden footbridge toward the ocean, across a grassy meadow and to the tide pools of Corallina Cove. Linger here to look for sea otters just off the shore, or continue on to the end of the trail near Grotto Rock.